Fresh Sea Bass Whole and Fillets

Sea bass, sold as whole fish and as fillets. The whole fish carry fine dark speckling along the upper body over bright silver flanks, and one is opened out flat so the thick white flesh runs the full length of the frame. The fillets are cut deep and even, with the skin left along one edge.

Steam a whole fish with ginger and scallion and finish it with hot oil and soy, or pan-fry the fillets skin-side down and let the skin crisp before you turn them. The flesh is lean and mild, so it takes a strong dressing well — a squeeze of lemon, a soy and ginger sauce, or a light broth.

• Whole sea bass and skin-on fillets
• Dark speckled upper body, silver flanks
• Thick, even white flesh
• Steam whole, or pan-fry the fillets skin-side down

Keep refrigerated, or freeze for longer storage. Thaw in the refrigerator and cook thoroughly before eating.