Whole Sardines for Everyday Cooking

Small whole fish, silver along the flanks with a warm pink cast and a row of large, round eyes. They are slender and firm-bodied rather than soft, and they hold their shape when they are lifted — a good sign in a small fish. One of the shots shows them steamed and finished with a pale fillet opened out on the plate.

They are small enough to cook whole. Pan-fry them in a little oil until the skin blisters and crisps, steam them with ginger and scallion, grill them, or braise them in tomato and soy so the bones soften. Eat them with the bones in, or lift the flesh away from the backbone in one piece.

• Small whole silver fish
• Large round eyes, slender firm body
• Hold their shape after cooking
• Pan-fry, steam, grill or braise whole

Keep refrigerated, or freeze for longer storage. Thaw in the refrigerator and cook thoroughly before eating.